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In Georgia, wine’s surprising birthplace, winemakers revive ancient grapes

Georgia is a country with a rich and ancient wine culture, dating back to at least 8,000 years ago. The people of this South Caucasus nation have been cultivating grapes and making wine in clay jars called kvevris for millennia, preserving a tradition that has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage.

But Georgia’s wine industry is not stuck in the past. On the contrary, it is constantly evolving and innovating, as winemakers experiment with new techniques and revive old varieties of grapes that have been neglected or forgotten.

One of the pioneers of this movement is Ramaz Nikoladze, a winemaker from the western region of Imereti. He is the founder of Nikoladzeebis Marani, a family-run winery that produces organic and natural wines from rare and indigenous grapes.

Nikoladze is passionate about preserving the diversity and uniqueness of Georgian grapes, which he says are threatened by the dominance of international varieties and the effects of climate change. He has been collecting and planting old grapevines from different parts of the country, creating a living library of Georgian viticulture.

In Georgia, wine's surprising birthplace, winemakers revive ancient grapes

Some of the grapes he works with are so obscure that they do not even have official names. He calls them by the names of the villages where he found them, such as Chkhaveri, Tsitska, Krakhuna, and Aladasturi. He says these grapes have distinctive aromas and flavors that reflect the terroir and history of Georgia.

Nikoladze is not alone in his quest to revive ancient grapes. He is part of a network of small-scale winemakers who share the same vision and values. They collaborate and exchange information, seeds, and cuttings, as well as promote their wines to local and international markets.

These winemakers are also supported by the Georgian Wine Association, a non-governmental organization that aims to develop and promote the Georgian wine sector. The association organizes events, trainings, and exhibitions, as well as provides assistance and advice to its members.

The association’s director, Tina Kezeli, says that Georgia’s wine industry has a lot of potential and opportunities, especially in the niche markets of organic and natural wines. She says that Georgia’s ancient grapes have a unique selling point, as they offer something different and authentic to the consumers.

She also says that Georgia’s wine culture is not only about the product, but also about the people and the traditions. She says that wine is an integral part of Georgian identity and hospitality, and that visitors can experience this firsthand by visiting the wineries and tasting the wines.

Georgia’s wine industry is a blend of ancient and modern, of tradition and innovation, of diversity and unity. It is a testament to the resilience and creativity of the Georgian people, who have been making wine for thousands of years, and who continue to do so with pride and passion.

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