Long Snake, Atlanta’s wandering wine bar, is hitting the brakes. Since launching in 2023, the unconventional dining spot has hopped between various locations, serving up inventive dishes in a constantly shifting setting. Now, its founder, Joshua Fryer, says it’s time for a break.
A Restaurant Without a Home
Long Snake has never been tied to a single address. Named after the PJ Harvey song Long Snake Moan, the concept has been a shape-shifting presence in Atlanta’s food scene. From Whoopsie’s near Reynoldstown to Georgia Beer Garden on Edgewood Avenue, then to Pure Quill Superette in Kirkwood, and finally settling—at least temporarily—at Banshee in East Atlanta Village, Long Snake has been a moving target for diners.
On Sunday and Monday nights, Fryer and his team have served up a rotating menu highlighting the flavors of the Southeast. Signature dishes like collard steamed catfish, deviled country ham ravioli, and hoecakes have earned a dedicated following. But the mobility that defined Long Snake also presented challenges.
The Cost of Staying Mobile
Fryer, a veteran of Atlanta’s restaurant scene and former beverage director at 8ARM, acknowledges that Long Snake’s unconventional format helped the business stay afloat without the steep investment required for a permanent location.
“[The nomadic format] allows us to exist because we don’t need the capital investment to be a brand, but it doesn’t necessarily make it easier to exist,” Fryer explained.
Finding venues willing to host a temporary restaurant, coordinating logistics, and maintaining a consistent experience in an ever-changing setting required relentless effort. While the concept kept overhead low, it also made operations unpredictable.
A Temporary Farewell?
For now, Long Snake is stepping back, though Fryer has not ruled out a return. Whether it resurfaces in another temporary home or takes on a different form remains to be seen.
Long Snake’s break leaves a void in Atlanta’s dining scene, particularly for those who sought out its creative, Southern-inflected cuisine. Fryer’s ability to craft inventive dishes in an ephemeral setting was part of what made Long Snake unique.
While the future remains uncertain, one thing is clear: Long Snake’s journey, however paused, isn’t necessarily over.