As I settle back into life in Tbilisi for the next six months (or so I hope), a multitude of comparisons come to mind between Georgia’s bustling capital and its remote province of Svaneti. Each place offers a unique perspective on life in Georgia, revealing both contrasts and connections that shape our experiences.
Nature vs. Urban Life
Svaneti is a realm of stunning natural beauty. It doesn’t matter what season it is; the landscapes are breathtaking. Surrounded by towering mountains, wildflowers, and rocky cliffs, it’s a place where one truly feels immersed in nature. Tbilisi, on the other hand, is a thriving city with a population of about 1.5 million. It’s a hub of noise, pollution, and the hustle and bustle of daily life, but it also boasts a vibrant cultural scene—music, visual arts, theater, cinema, and an array of international cuisine await in its lively neighborhoods.
Public transport is another stark difference. In Tbilisi, the system is relatively developed, allowing for easier movement across the city. Svaneti, however, offers far fewer options, relying more on the rugged charm of its natural paths.
Infrastructure and Reliability
Life in Tbilisi means access to regular electricity, water, and gas—often with advance warning via SMS notifications if services are disrupted. In Svaneti, however, the situation is different. Gas is limited to what can be bottled, while electricity and water, though free, are notoriously unreliable. When outages occur, there’s no heads-up; one might call the local mayor or the power guy, but getting a straight answer can be a challenge.
If you don’t own land in Tbilisi, your gardening ambitions are confined to flower pots or window boxes. In Svaneti, however, the land is yours to farm as you see fit—provided you know what you’re doing. I have my wife to guide me through the complexities of farming, or else things could go hilariously awry.
Regulation vs. Freedom
When it comes to construction and renovations, the contrasts become even more pronounced. Svaneti allows home renovation and building with minimal oversight. There are no requirements for signage or permits, which can lead to a more liberated approach to construction. Conversely, Tbilisi enforces strict regulations that require adherence to building codes and bureaucratic processes. This can be frustrating but ensures that constructions are safe and built to standard.
Roads and Accessibility
Road conditions tell their own story. Tbilisi has seen significant improvements in infrastructure since my parents first visited in 2004. Back then, they remarked on the poor road conditions, but the city has made strides. In Svaneti, the situation is mixed; while the main roads have been upgraded to cement and asphalt, many sections remain hazardous due to erosion and frost heaves.
Traveling from Jvari to Mestia is easier than it once was, but the efforts to patch up roads before elections have resulted in rushed repairs that some locals feel are not up to par.
Heating and Comfort
When it comes to home heating, Svaneti residents enjoy the warmth of wood-burning stoves fueled by seasoned wood. In Tbilisi, central heating systems powered by piped gas provide warmth and convenience—but at a cost. The choice between free electricity and the paid convenience of central heating highlights the trade-offs between rural and urban living.
Political Landscape
The political climates in these regions also differ markedly. Tbilisi is a melting pot of diverse opinions and political affiliations, while Svaneti leans heavily towards the ruling Georgian Dream party. Despite a turbulent history, the area has seen significant changes thanks to past efforts to restore rule of law. However, whispers of corruption have begun to reemerge, creating an uneasy atmosphere.
Both Tbilisi and Svaneti offer unique lifestyles, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. After spending ten winters in Svaneti, my partner and I opted for the comforts of Tbilisi this year, especially with the unpredictability of electricity during the snowy season. I will always cherish the winter beauty of Svaneti and plan to return for the Lamproba festival in February. For now, Tbilisi, with all its vibrancy, wins out in the practicality of daily living.
