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14-and-a-Half Years in Georgia: The Good, the Bad, and the Khinkali

I moved to Georgia from England in September 2009, the year after their short war with Russia. Every year, I reflect on my life in Georgia—the country, not the US state (it needs qualifying every time). People often ask me if I like Georgia, and my answer is a nuanced one.

Fantastic Light

Georgia boasts fantastic light. Clear, sunny days are abundant, making for excellent photos. Coming from England, where sunny days are rarer, this is a great blessing.

Georgian_mountains

Spectacular Mountains

The Georgian mountains are truly spectacular. Some peaks surpass even those in the Alps (for instance, Mont Blanc at 4810m and Mount Shkhara in Svaneti at 5193m). These majestic peaks serve as a powerful draw for tourists.

Georgian Cuisine

Georgians take immense pride in their cuisine. Ranked fourth out of 48 European cuisines (behind only Italy, France, and Spain), Georgian food offers a rich culinary experience. While I’m not a fan of khachapuri (the signature cheese-filled pastry), I do enjoy khinkali (dumplings) and churchkhela (nuts wrapped in solidified grape juice). Georgian meals are significant events, often celebrated with a feast or “supra.” The country also claims to have invented wine some 8000 years ago—a claim supported by substantial archaeological evidence.

The Challenges

The Georgian Language

The Georgian language presents a real challenge for me. With its unique alphabet and long words featuring tricky consonant clusters, it’s unlike any other language I’ve encountered. Despite having lived in France for six years and being reasonably proficient in French, Georgian remains a different story. This year, I resolved to read a book in Georgian, but progress has been agonizingly slow.

Safety

Tbilisi feels like a safe city, and I’ve encountered no troubles. However, it hasn’t always been this way. In the 1990s, street crime was more prevalent. Walking around Tbilisi at night feels far less intimidating than doing the same in an English city on a Friday or Saturday night.

Smoking

Smoking is very common in Georgia, which might be a challenge for non-smokers.

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